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Copenhagen, Denmark |
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København,
Danmark |
What
can I say about Stockholm and Copenhagen?
Let me put it as simply as possible, I just love Stockholm and
Copenhagen. Both cities have very
friendly blondies who speak perfect english.
They certainly rank among my favorite cities in the world. Well, that probably doesn't say much 'coz I
haven't been to many. Let's see: Kuala
Lumpur, Singapore, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, New York, New
Orlean,
Las Vegas, Helsinki, Amsterdam, Paris, and Siem Reap (a town really). Stockholm and Copenhagen are definitely up
there with Paris and San Francisco.
I
have a stop over in Copenhagen to see a good friend, Andreas. We decided to meet in front of Tivoli (which
is like a Danish version of the Disneyland except that it has existed
long
before Disneyland). Well, as it turns
out, Andreas was slightly late. As he is
a very fun tease, I am not letting this opportunity off.
So I said to him, "It took me 15 hours
to fly here to meet you, but it only takes you 15 minutes of cycling
time to
get here, and yet you are late!!!!"
I am of course not really angry with him as I simply adore him. He came up with some lame excuses about the
clock in his kitchen being inaccurate! :-)
Then we decided to cross the street to park his bike. Then the most amazing thing happens. As he was looking for a place to park his
bike,
I heard someone calling my name from behind.
I turned around and I saw Marcelo Sanchez, another economist
graduated
from Berkeley a few years before me. I
haven't seen him since he left Berkeley.
He has moved to the ECB and I have moved back to Singapore. Yet, now we see each other again, in
Copenhagen, two hours after I arrived in Copenhagen and one day before
he was
going to leave Copenhagen. What are the
odds of that!!!! Andreas of course got
very happy and suggested that I should thank him for being late, for
otherwise
we would have missed each other. Oh
well, I guess he is right!
After
some catching up, Marcelo and his friend splitted with us as they were
still
doing some project for the ECB that day.
Then Andreas pulled out these printouts from his bag. Guess what?
They are locations where you can find free lunches in the city. He suggested that we should go to find these
free food in the city. I have to tell
you something about Andreas. Beside
being a good friend and funny, he is a smart guy and he has two master
degrees
in Economics, one from Copenhagen university and another from NYU. This is too good an opportunity to pass
up. So I said to him: "Shame on
you! Two master degrees in economics and you still believe in free
lunches!" I am of course not
serious. But I will not pass up any
opportunity to tease him 'coz he is such a good sport.
Milton Friedman is of course one of the great
economists of the last century who famously said that "there are no
free
lunches." The modern statement by
Robert Lucas is of course that "there shouldn't be a $500 bill on the
side
walk." Of course, both of these
statements do not imply that one should never find any opportunity of
free
lunches. It only means that one should
not expect free lunches systematically.
Andreas
insisted that there are free lunches in the city and suggested that we
go look
for them. So we got to one of the
locations, which give out free samples of the product as promotional
effort. Unfortunately for us, we were too
early. So they asked us to come back later. To cut the long story of free lunches
short. We never did get any free lunches
that day. But I did get a free lunch the
next day. But I will tell you that story
later. Of course, to do justice to
Andreas, we weren't looking very seriously and so our failure to find
free
lunches that day is not irrefutable evidence that "there are no free
lunches."
Then
Andreas very kindly showed me his city.
I think we started out in the main square of the city –
Radhuspladsen,
which is next to the city hall and a fountain called the Dragon’s Leap
Fountain
(turns out that Andreas didn’t know the name of the fountain). Then we walked up Stroget, the main shopping
street in Copenhagen that is closed to traffic.
Stroget is a great place for people watching.
I love it.
Then we moved from one square to the next. Andreas
tried to explain the orientation of
the city to me. But we don’t have a map
and I am seriously jet lagged. So I
probably don’t remember half the things he told me.
We saw Christianborg, where the Danish
parliament is, along the way. He showed
me Copenhagen university at some point.
At
some point we got to Nyhavn. This is
perhaps one of the most photographed place in Copenhagen.
It is next to a canal with boats and lots of
nice bars and restaurants on the sidewalk.
And then I learnt something interesting about this place. On the left side of the street are the nice
bars and restaurants. That is where the
rich people sit to have their beer. On
the right hand side of the street is the canal bank and the canal. That is apparently where the poor students
sit to have their beer, which is bought from the convenient store
nearby. I thought that was a really funny
idea. I thought it is a good analogy to
the great
Danish society. Of course, you have rich
people and poor people in Denmark, but it is also a very equal society. It’s like the rich people on the left hand
side of the street and the poor students on the right hand side of the
street. You can tell the difference but
there is only one narrow street between them.
Then
we wandered off to have some famous Danish hotdog.
I learnt that Denmark is famous for hotdogs
but Germany is famous for sausage. To be
honest, I cannot appreciate the difference ‘coz hotdogs are simply
sausages in
buns and there is nothing special about the buns. But
Andreas insisted that the two are
distinct. Now in retrospect, this
reminded me of George Akerlof’s nut bars and milk bars example when he
taught
us the Modigliani-Miller Theorem. The
hotdog – sausage version of the story would be: some stands insisted
that
sausage should be sold with the buns because that is what customers
like. Other believe that sausages should
be sold
separately with the buns because that is what customers like. If M-M theorem holds, of course, it doesn’t
matter whether the stands sell the sausages independently or together
with the
buns ‘coz the customers will automatically repackage them.
Anyway, if you don’t get the joke then just
forget about it. It’s an insider joke to
anyone who has taken George’s class.
(Note: the hotdog – sausage version of the story of course
doesn’t work
as well as the nut bars milk bars example ‘coz it is harder to
repackage the
buns and the sausages). The long
digression is just an elaborate argument on why I don’t see any
material
difference between hotdogs and sausages.
It’s this nerdy economist’s joke.
Then
we went to see the biggest fraud in Copenhagen – the little mermaid. I knew from my travel guide that the statue
of the little mermaid is a fraud. But it
wasn’t until we walked all the way there that I realize how big a fraud
this
is. There is almost absolutely nothing
in a one mile radius. Then first you see
a big crowd of people. You looked and
looked and you saw nothing except the people.
Then after some serious effort, you see this little mermaid
statue right
next to the shore, surrounded by people and more people.
It is ridiculous! We sat down and
had a little chat about the
meaning of life.
Then
we walked to the Queen’s palace. We saw
some royal guards, who look quite cool in their furry hat.
Andreas told me that while his girlfriend
visited him, his girlfriend asked one of the royal guards whether she
could
take a picture with him and the guard gave a stern “no” as answer. I guess these guards take themselves quite
seriously. I can even give you some
psychological reasons why this might be so but I won’t.
In any case, I thought the guard must be
thinking, “Woman, take me seriously ‘coz I am not your toy! I am the royal guard to the queen.”
After
that we wandered back to the main square next to the city hall ‘coz
there was
supposed to be the pride parade in Copenhagen.
So we jumped up some benches to see some parade and floats. It’s really quite small in scale.
As far as I remember, there were only 3
floats altogether, very small scale compared to the annual pride parade
in San
Francisco at the end of June. In any case,
it was fun. One of the drags was really
tall. I felt as if he/she is almost as
tall as me while I was standing on the bench.
Then
finally we are off to some food, not free.
We went to the famous Riz Raz, just south of Stroget and we
feast on a
Mediterranean-Style vegetarian buffet.
It is decent. But when it comes
to food, nothing really compares to the choices and the low prices of
food in
Southeast Asia. I thought I should get
Andreas to visit me sometime and show him what we are capable of when
it comes
to eating and shopping. After that, we
went back to my hotel (which is in the red light district, about 15
minutes
walk from Tivoli and the central station) ‘coz I am getting quite tired
now. The hotel borders on the
Frederiksberg (an upscale neighborhood) but it is more in the red light
district in Vesterbro really. But it is
really ok ‘coz it is not like what you think.
We rested for a while and we came out for a beer, I think. This is when my memory becomes a bit murky. I tried the Danes’ preferred beer. Sorry to inform you, most danes actually
prefer Tuborg, not Carlsberg, which self proclaims to be probably the
best beer
in the world. I am quite embarrassed for
Carlsberg whenever I see that ad. I like
the ad. Mind you, it is not a bad beer
either. But it must be insane to claim
itself to be probably the best beer in the world when it is not even
the
preferred beer in its own country!
The
next day, we met at my hotel at 11am. We
walked towards the city center, had a coffee/tea. Then
Andreas has to go to his friend’s Frederik’s birthday party at the
beach. The
beach is about half an hour away by bus, north of the city, in a place
called
the Charlottenlund Strand. Andreas said
I could come along and I would like to check out the beach in
Copenhagen and so
I tagged along. We got there and we met
his friends, all Danes. I thought his
friend Frederik looks like Wolverine in the X men, with the beard and
all. And there was a barbecue (a free
lunch)! At this point I got quite
embarrassed. I thought Andreas was going
to go there and
say happy birthday, give his present and in half an hour we would be
out of
there. That’s what Andreas said
anyway. I didn’t expect a barbecue. There I was, the only Asian, clearly doesn’t
belong and free riding on the free food!
I didn’t even buy a separate present for him.
I thought his friends must be thinking, “Who
is this Asian who is eating our food!”
It’s rather embarrassing situation.
Of course, they were all very nice about it.
And Andreas didn’t know anybody there other
than Frederik. But I manage to strike up a
conversation with a very nice couple - the guy was in the army with
Frederik. His girlfriend was reading this
book “Angry
White Men” by Roger Moore. I happened to
know a few movies by Roger Moore, including “Roger and Me.” I think I know almost everything there is to
know about his movie “Bowling for Columbine” even though I haven’t seen
it
because I have read a lot about it.
There
I was, ultimately had my free lunch in Copenhagen, but feeling quite
embarrassed. Economists should be
jumping up and down for the opportunity to free ride, but I don’t
really feel
good about it. (I am a shame to economists
everywhere! Note: George Akerlof once said that few economists
would admit the possibility of money illusion, i.e., some economic
decisions are based on nominal instead of real variables, because they
thought they would have their licenses (as an economist) taken away
should they admit to such possibility. Feeling ashamed when I was
enjoying a free lunch is a sin at least as great as that in the book of
economists). In any case, all the
people there were very nice about it.
It’s my own psychology that is not letting me off.
So after some barbecue and some home brew
beer (really great stuff! I have sort of
brewed my own beer twice, IN A COUNTRY WHERE THAT’S LEGAL!), and after
some
game of wood blocks throwing, Frederik opened his presents.
And he apparently made some speech about
women in Danish. There was this
particular gadget that captured a lot of attention and interests. It’s a gadget that operates on
batteries. There are 4 holes on each
side. Each person is supposed to put a
finger in one of the holes. Then one
person presses a button and a poor soul will get an electric shock! How fun!!!!!
Who would have thought of such a device!! He
kindly offered me the game. I really
didn’t want to play. It’s irrational to
want to get an electric
shock with .25 probability. But after
eating the free lunch, I felt that I had to contribute something. So I put my finger into one of the holes and
prayed. I feel like silence of the
lamb! Halleluiah, my prayer was answered
and I didn’t get the shock. Instead, the
nice guy who talked to me got it. The
shock looked quite serious. But no long
term damage was done, I was sure.
Overall,
it was a very nice experience. In the
sun, by the beach, having barbecue and the wonderful home brew beer. But if I had known that there was a barbecue,
I would have bought a separate present.
Of course, being the good Asian that I am, I took some pictures
of the
beach. But I was quite worried while I
was doing that ‘coz there were many women were sun bathing topless on
the
beach. God forbids, I don’t want to be
seen as that pervert Asian guy taking pictures of half naked women on
the
beach, on top of being the strange Asian guy who was eating their food!
Then
we took the bus back to the city. Then
Andreas brought me to Kongens Have (the King’s Garden) and showed me
Rosenborg
Slot (a castle). But we were too late
and the castle was closed for the day.
So we laid on the grass in front of the castle for a while. Then we set off for a coffee.
Then we went to see the Black Diamond. After
that, Andreas showed me a really cool
place in the city. It is a swimming pool
inside one of the canals! It’s really a
wonderful place to spend a lazy afternoon.
The sun, the beach, and the blue sky.
Then
we walked back to the city, passed by Ny Carlsberg Glypotek, an art
museum I
think. Then we set off to find some
dinner. We searched and searched and
searched. Time has passed until all that
is known has passed out of knowledge, then we finally settled in this
“Italian”
restaurant. Let me just say that it is
not even trying to make good food. By
all accounts it is a tourist trap. We
came out of the restaurant, walked a few steps and found many
restaurants that
have cheaper buffet that looked better.
Then we head back the bar Obelix on Vesterbrotorv to have a beer
and
have more serious talks about life.
The
next day Andreas has to work. So I tour
the city some more alone. I walked up to
the Frederiksberg Alle and saw a garden.
Nothing exciting. I probably
didn’t walk far enough. Then it rained
and so I took the bus to go to the main square.
I then walked up Stroget. I
thought of checking out the Erotic Museum, but the entrance fee is
really
steep, something like DKK90, which is more than S$20 (Note: 3.8 Danish
Kroner = 1 Singapore Dollar, 6.5 Danish Kroner = 1 US Dollar).
So I decided not to go in. Afterall,
I have seen the sex museum in
Amsterdam and I thought it was pretty lame.
So I continued to walk to see the Round Tower.
I walked up the tower and took many nice
pictures and saw the bridge from Denmark to Malmo, Sweden.
After
the round tower, I saw on the bench in Stroget and just people watch. Unfortunately it started raining.
So I hid inside a MacDonald and waited for my
appointment with Andreas at 4:30pm at the Dragon’s Leap Fountain. I was getting really tired from too much
walking and the jet lag finally set in.
I was dying to lie down but I have to keep my promises. So I sat aimlessly in the MacDonald for an
hour. Finally the rain stopped. I came out to the main square to wait for
Andreas. I thought of going into Tivoli
but Andreas said that he would go with me.
So I thought I should wait for him.
Then it rained again. I couldn’t
go anywhere ‘coz it is like 10 minutes till our meeting time. So I took out my umbrella and sat in the
drizzle on a bench by the square. I felt
lousy. I was really dying to lie
down. The sores under my feet were
bothering me. But I have to
persevere. Afterall, this is the last
time I would see Andreas in probably a long time.
Then
finally the time came and Andreas showed up.
We met, had dinner in a Thai restaurant in the
red light district because it is the best Thai restaurant in Copenhagen
according to my lonely planet guide (it was decent).
Then we went back to meet Casper. I
wanted to see Tivoli before I left. So Andreas and I went into Tivoli. Met Casper for
a beer later. At 10pm, I couldn’t hold on
any longer. They very nicely walked me
back to my hotel
and we said goodbye.
![]() The main square in Copenhagen, in
front of the city hall.
![]() Andreas
Stroget,
main shopping street, great for people watching. Christianborg, the
parliament. I think there may be more bicycles in Copenhagen than
Amsterdam.
Another square....
Little Mermaid, what a
disappointment!
Andreas in front of the royal
palace in Copenhagen.
Rosenborg, a castle in the city.
The round tower.
Another view from the round tower.
Kongens Have (the King's Garden
next to Rosenborg).
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The hotel next to the main square.
Another shot of Stroget.
![]() Me.
Nyhavn.
The Danish Royal Guards strutting
their stuff...
The beach, north of the city.
You can swim in the canal, cool!
Colorful rooftops, seen from the
top of the round tower..
Another view from the round tower.
Black diamond, an architectural
landmark of Copenhagen.
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